Matt


<p>As winter wanes, thoughts turn to summer and BBQs, family gatherings, and music wafting through the air.&nbsp;</p>



<p>With no end in sight to the pandemic, even the most stunning home can quickly start to feel a bit limiting. Wouldn’t it be nice to spend a bit more time outside, in the sunshine?</p>



<p>Forget that you live in Britain for a moment and sunshine isn’t guaranteed! It’s always nice to be outside. In fact, it’s critical: <a href="https://lifeworkscc.com/mental-health-benefits-outdoors/#:~:text=Spending%20time%20outdoors%20reduces%20your,reduction%20in%20their%20depression%20symptoms.">spending time in a green environment</a> boosts your mood, increases self-esteem and reduces depression. Now, remember that you do live in Britain and that sometimes getting out in the garden can be a fool’s errand… So, how can you make the most of the great outdoors? The answer is… A garden room!</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" width="1000" height="714" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2022/01/shutterstock_1234026421.webp" alt="garden house ideas" class="wp-image-3252"/></figure>



<p>Gone are the days of a man locked in his shed masquerading as an office; you can now construct a beautiful addition to your home that won’t be full of old bikes, scrap and spiders!&nbsp;</p>



<p>The only limit is your imagination. And budget. And space.</p>



<p>Read also: <a href="https://buildiro.com/magazine/how-to-make-raised-garden-beds-a-great-solution-for-plants-and-herbs/">How to build a raised bed</a></p>



<p>First, consider what you want to get out of your fabulous new garden room. Do you just want a space to sit down and read, or watch the birds outside? Maybe you’d like a small office if, like so many of us, you now work remotely and don’t want to see your home as your workplace.&nbsp; Perhaps a yoga study or gym, or another bedroom, or even a bar? These are all possibilities, which all have different requirements.</p>



<p>The first thing to do is figure out if you need<a href="https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/43/outbuildings"> planning permission</a>. You’ll want to be very sure of this, as you don’t want to build your dream garden office only to have to tear it down later! Also, make sure the land is pre-laid, level, solid and dry, perhaps with a foundation of either a wooden shed base, concrete or paving.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" width="1000" height="667" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2022/01/shutterstock_1719413197.webp" alt="garden house ideas" class="wp-image-3254"/></figure>



<p>The next thing to consider is your budget. If you’re good with your hands you can save money by building your garden room yourself. <a href="https://buildiro.com/category/garden-and-outdoor-garden-buildings-summerhouses">We have excellent choices</a> from £410 &#8211; £1,850. However, that’s just the start, as you’ll have to treat and paint the wood. If you want to use the room year-round then insulation is critical, and this can get pretty costly! Double glazing will be a necessity if you want a view, and some kind of heating will also go a long way. While an electric heater will work, but a wood burner has a wonderful and cosy appeal.</p>



<p>What about electricity? You can run a long extension lead to your garden office, but it’s unsightly and you’ll have to be extra-careful when you mow the lawn. If you want water and don’t want to keep going back to the kitchen, then you’ll need either a water cooler, fridge, or plumbing installed. On top of all this, you need to factor in labour costs, too. As you can see, costs can quickly mount up, so do your research well and really think about what you want from your garden room, as any changes later might be very difficult or expensive to make!</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" width="1000" height="667" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2022/01/shutterstock_1138004081.webp" alt="garden house ideas" class="wp-image-3251"/></figure>



<p>The next question you’ll have to answer is: where will you put your new garden room? Location is critical. As mentioned you’ll want the ground to be level, but imagine sitting in your lovely new room: where is the best view? What do you want to see? Make a note of where the sun rises and sets; you don’t want to be blinded by the sun (when it decides to show up!). The further your garden room is away from your house, the more it will feel like a completely separate space. Another good tip to help those struggling with this step is to put up some sticks where you’re thinking of building your garden room. Wait a few days, and see whether that really is the perfect place!</p>



<p>If you’re still stuck for some ideas, then we have a wide range of garden rooms readily available! Something cheap, simple, and fun that’s bound to impress visitors is the <a href="https://buildiro.com/product/5060490134529/Shire-6-x-4ft-Paradise-Bar">Shire Paradise Bar</a>. For £699 you can bring an actual bar into your backyard. Stock it with drinks and a Bluetooth speaker and play bartender (and DJ!) at your next get-together. What’s also great about this small space is that it doubles as a shed; simply lock the door and shutter!</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" width="1000" height="668" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2022/01/shutterstock_1319151341.webp" alt="garden house ideas" class="wp-image-3253"/></figure>



<p>If you’re after something small yet classy, then the <a href="https://buildiro.com/product/5397007006391/Shire-Lumley-7x5-Apex-Shiplap-Wooden-Summer-house-%28Base-included%29---Assembly-service-included">Shire Lumley Shiplap Summer House</a> could be the answer. Big enough for some chairs and a small table, it’s easy to imagine having a cup of tea and looking out the windowed doors. You could also turn it into a small workspace, perfect for woodwork or as an artspace.</p>



<p>The <a href="https://buildiro.com/product/5029442077871/Mercia-Traditional-Summerhouse---7-x-7ft">Mercer Traditional Summerhouse</a> is exactly what it says! The Traditional Summerhouse is ideal for smaller gardens. Its quaint, beach-style facade provides a light and airy feel to the building. This would be great as a yoga studio or a place to practice meditation. For £690, you too can experience zen in your very own garden!</p>



<p>Lastly, we have the <a href="https://buildiro.com/product/5029442076560/Mercia-Premium-Garden-Room---12%27-x-8%27">Mercer Premium Garden Room</a>. This large 12 x 8ft garden room is unique in that it’s two buildings in one. The larger half is incredibly spacious and can host family gatherings or would be a fantastic office. The small half forms a storage area, big enough for either gardening or sports supplies. This premium garden room can be yours for just £1,537.49.</p>



<p>As you can see, when it comes to garden rooms, the choice is totally yours. Whether you want a garden office for your business, a garden pod for your mental health, or just a garden shed for your gym equipment, there’s never been a better time to get planning!</p>


As winter wanes, thoughts turn to summer and BBQs, family gatherings, and music wafting through the air.&nbsp;



With no end in sight to the pandemic, even the most stunning home can quickly start to feel a bit limiting. Wouldn’t it be nice to spend a bit more time outside, in the sunshine?



Forget that you live in Britain for a moment and sunshine isn’t guaranteed! It’s always nice to be outside. In fact, it’s critical: spending time in a green environment boosts your mood, increases self-esteem and reduces depression. Now, remember that you do live in Britain and that sometimes getting out in the garden can be a fool’s errand… So, how can you make the most of the great outdoors? The answer is… A garden room!







Gone are the days of a man locked in his shed masquerading as an office; you can now construct a beautiful addition to your home that won’t be full of old bikes, scrap and spiders!&nbsp;



The only limit is your imagination. And budget. And space.



Read also: How to build a raised bed



First, consider what you want to get out of your fabulous new garden room. Do you just want a space to sit down and read, or watch the birds outside? Maybe you’d like a small office if, like so many of us, you now work remotely and don’t want to see your home as your workplace.&nbsp; Perhaps a yoga study or gym, or another bedroom, or even a bar? These are all possibilities, which all have different requirements.



The first thing to do is figure out if you need planning permission. You’ll want to be very sure of this, as you don’t want to build your dream garden office only to have to tear it down later! Also, make sure the land is pre-laid, level, solid and dry, perhaps with a foundation of either a wooden shed base, concrete or paving.







The next thing to consider is your budget. If you’re good with your hands you can save money by building your garden room yourself. We have excellent choices from £410 &#8211; £1,850. However, that’s just the start, as you’ll have to treat and paint the wood. If you want to use the room year-round then insulation is critical, and this can get pretty costly! Double glazing will be a necessity if you want a view, and some kind of heating will also go a long way. While an electric heater will work, but a wood burner has a wonderful and cosy appeal.



What about electricity? You can run a long extension lead to your garden office, but it’s unsightly and you’ll have to be extra-careful when you mow the lawn. If you want water and don’t want to keep going back to the kitchen, then you’ll need either a water cooler, fridge, or plumbing installed. On top of all this, you need to factor in labour costs, too. As you can see, costs can quickly mount up, so do your research well and really think about what you want from your garden room, as any changes later might be very difficult or expensive to make!







The next question you’ll have to answer is: where will you put your new garden room? Location is critical. As mentioned you’ll want the ground to be level, but imagine sitting in your lovely new room: where is the best view? What do you want to see? Make a note of where the sun rises and sets; you don’t want to be blinded by the sun (when it decides to show up!). The further your garden room is away from your house, the more it will feel like a completely separate space. Another good tip to help those struggling with this step is to put up some sticks where you’re thinking of building your garden room. Wait a few days, and see whether that really is the perfect place!



If you’re still stuck for some ideas, then we have a wide range of garden rooms readily available! Something cheap, simple, and fun that’s bound to impress visitors is the Shire Paradise Bar. For £699 you can bring an actual bar into your backyard. Stock it with drinks and a Bluetooth speaker and play bartender (and DJ!) at your next get-together. What’s also great about this small space is that it doubles as a shed; simply lock the door and shutter!







If you’re after something small yet classy, then the Shire Lumley Shiplap Summer House could be the answer. Big enough for some chairs and a small table, it’s easy to imagine having a cup of tea and looking out the windowed doors. You could also turn it into a small workspace, perfect for woodwork or as an artspace.



The Mercer Traditional Summerhouse is exactly what it says! The Traditional Summerhouse is ideal for smaller gardens. Its quaint, beach-style facade provides a light and airy feel to the building. This would be great as a yoga studio or a place to practice meditation. For £690, you too can experience zen in your very own garden!



Lastly, we have the Mercer Premium Garden Room. This large 12 x 8ft garden room is unique in that it’s two buildings in one. The larger half is incredibly spacious and can host family gatherings or would be a fantastic office. The small half forms a storage area, big enough for either gardening or sports supplies. This premium garden room can be yours for just £1,537.49.



As you can see, when it comes to garden rooms, the choice is totally yours. Whether you want a garden office for your business, a garden pod for your mental health, or just a garden shed for your gym equipment, there’s never been a better time to get planning!

As winter wanes, thoughts turn to summer and BBQs, family gatherings, and music wafting through the air. 

With no end in sight to the pandemic, even the most stunning home can quickly start to feel a bit limiting. Wouldn’t it be nice to spend a bit more time outside, in the sunshine?


How to Pick the Best Garden Room or Small Shed for Your Garden

The best light for kitchens can vary depending on the size and layout of the kitchen and the amount of natural light that the kitchen receives. In general, however, certain lights work best in kitchen environments.



When choosing light fixtures for a kitchen, it is important to consider the size of the kitchen and the amount of natural light it receives.



The 6 Best Kitchen Lights in 2022



Rating Summary



We get into the nitty-gritty below, but if you are keen to see our opinions summarised on a handy table, here you go! We&#8217;ve considered Energy efficiency, looks, and, of course, price.



Starlight Ceiling SpotlightTenso LED Pendant&nbsp;Intreccio ChandelierRGB LED StripRust brown wall light FriedaPaulmann URailEnergyEfficiency5/55/53/54/52/54/5Looks4/54.5/55/52/54/55/5Price4.5/54.5/53/54/53.5/53/5Overall %4.33/5 (87%)4.66/5(93%)3.66/5(73%)3.33/5(67%)3.16(63%)4/5(80%)



Spotlights



Spotlights are great at providing directional light and can be used to highlight specific areas in a kitchen. Usable anywhere in the house, they are particularly popular in the kitchen. They are very energy-efficient when fitted with LED bulbs, making them a great choice for those looking to save on their energy bills. However, spotlights can be difficult to install, and changing bulbs can also be tricky. If you&#8217;re looking for a simple recessed spotlight, check out the Diall Nickel Effect Non-adjustable Downlight from B&amp;Q or the Asterion Satin Chome effect spotlight if you&#8217;re looking for budget options for installing spotlights.




Buy spotlights now




Our favourite ceiling spotlight is the&nbsp;Starlight ceiling spotlight. The Starlight is suitable for use either on its own, for task or accent lighting, or as part of a collection of lights to provide general lighting. This product features a replaceable internal reflector so you can choose between a white or gold reflector &#8211; the gold will provide a warm glow compared to the white.



You can install a 50 Watt equivalent GU10 light bulb for energy usage of 3-9W per bulb, which scores it a 5/5 for energy efficiency. The Starlight looks great, with a clean cylindrical body, though its presence won&#8217;t suit everybody &#8211; 4/5. Finally, at under £45, the Starlight is an affordable piece of kit, even if you decide to add several of them to a room. We rate it a 4.5/5 on cost.







Pendants



Pendants are the traditional light fixture you&#8217;ll have seen through most houses, but they have been less common in the past. They are a single light suspended from the ceiling by a cord or chain. Pendants can be used to provide task lighting, ambient lighting, or accent lighting, making them a versatile choice for any kitchen. They are relatively easy to install and offer a wide range of designs to modern choose from, meaning you can find the perfect pendant for your kitchen. Be sure to check out the Stylish pendant light Embla or the Forestier Anemos L hanging light as examples of what is possible.




Buy pendant lights now




If you opt for a standard pendant, you&#8217;ll most likely install an LED bulb, an energy-efficient option for lighting up your kitchen. However, some pendants, like the&nbsp;Tenso LED pendant lamp with dimmer, opt to meld other technologies, such as an LED strip in this case.



While there is a great deal of choice in the market for pendant lights, our favourite right now has to be the&nbsp;Tenso LED pendant lamp with dimmer. Unlike most pendant lights, The Tenso is equipped with an LED strip. This gives the Tenso an A+ energy rating. It is also very bright, and the LEDs are long-lasting. For that reason, we&#8217;re giving it 5/5 for efficiency. It looks fabulous, in a very modern manner, and at just £120, it scored well on both looks and price, 4.5/5 for each.



Chandeliers



Chandeliers provide a luxurious feel to any room and can be used to create an elegant ambience in the kitchen. Truthfully, they are a variant on the pendant light, but due to their increased size, the number of lights, and overall weight, they are often considered separate. They are often used as accent lighting and, as such, are often fitted with dimmer switches so that they can be adjusted to create the perfect lighting for any occasion. Chandeliers can be tricky to install, primarily due to their additional weight, so it is best to get a professional to do it for you. Once installed, they are relatively easy to maintain and offer a wide range of designs. Be sure to look at the 8-light chandelier Caleb in a country house style or the Sala Six Bulb Chandelier if you&#8217;re seeking inspiration.




Buy chandeliers now




For us, the best chandelier on the market right now is the&nbsp;Intreccio 8-bulb chandelier. Of course, what works in one home will vary when compared to another for something so style specific. But with its ribbons of gold interweaving through the otherwise snow-white metal framework, it&#8217;s a sight to behold and would fit into any homes that have used white or creams as their central colour scheme. 5/5 for looks. As a large chandelier, it is much more expensive than many other light types, but it is still priced very favourably compared to other chandeliers. You should consider this if you&#8217;ve decided to go with a chandelier. 3/5 on price. As for energy, while each bulb is 40W since you&#8217;ll use them 8 at a time, we&#8217;ve got to knock a couple of points off.



LED Strips



LED strips are a relatively new type of lighting that has become increasingly popular in recent years. They are long, thin strips of LEDs that can be used to provide task lighting, ambient lighting, or accent lighting. One of their greatest strengths is that you can remotely adjust the brightness and colour of the strip, letting you change up the mood of a room at the touch of a button. They are very easy to install and offer a wide range of designs to choose from. Be sure to check out the&nbsp;Philips Hue Lightstrip Plus.



However, as cool as the Hue is, we know many people want to experiment and play with LED strips before committing to large investments. You can&#8217;t do much better than the&nbsp;500cm RGB LED strip&nbsp;with remote control, with app or voice command (with Google Home or Amazon Echo). 5m should be long enough for most owners to light the underside of their kitchen cabinets.,



In terms of looks, it&#8217;s a basic RGB light strip, so it&#8217;s functional rather than attractive, but that&#8217;s true for pretty much any light strip. It&#8217;s not about the look of the strip but how you use the light to enhance your room. We&#8217;ll give it a 2/5 for looks, but your use of it is sure to be 5/5! At 5m long, the price is great (4/5), and its energy efficiency is also good, though it starts to add up if you use long or multiple strips.



Wall Lights



Wall lights (or wall sconces) are a great way to add ambient lighting to a room and can be used to highlight specific areas in a kitchen. They are very easy to install and offer a wide range of designs to choose from. Generally, they won&#8217;t be sufficient to light a room evenly by themselves, but combined with other types of light, they can be very effective for placing either side of a door.



As with pendant lights, there is a huge supply of available options, but for us, the best results in the kitchen would come from adjustable lights, like the Chrome-plated wall light or the Stylish wall light Rider.




Buy wall lights now




Our favourite in this category is the&nbsp;Rust brown wall light Frieda, which has an industrial yet vintage flair. It is a bit more expensive than some of the other lights on this list, but its quality and style are undeniable. 4/5 for looks and 3.5/5 for price. With just one E14 bulb, energy consumption is a strong contender for winning the energy efficiency section until you consider that this light will only form part of an overall lighting solution. Given their mounting positions, even a pair of these can only go so far &#8211; 2/5.



Track Lighting







Track lighting is surprisingly simple to install and offers a lot of versatility regarding how you light your kitchen. As the name suggests, track lighting involves a system of tracks mounted to the ceiling, with lights that can be moved and positioned along the track. This gives you a lot of flexibility regarding where you place your lights and how you aim them.




Buy track lighting now




There are a few things to keep in mind when choosing track lighting. Firstly, make sure you choose a system compatible with the type of light bulbs you want to use. Secondly, pay attention to the length of the track &#8211; you will need enough track to cover the area you want to light, plus some extra for positioning the lights.



When you buy a track light, you are buying into a system. Everything must be compatible and from the same manufacturer, from the rails, fittings, and light heads. Sticking with one system is important because it ensures that everything works together seamlessly and makes replacements easy, should you need them.



The best track lighting system we&#8217;ve found is the&nbsp;Paulmann URail system. The tracks are slimmer than most and have options in both chrome and white. There are many different light head types, such as&nbsp;this,&nbsp;this, and&nbsp;this, plus many more. You can add a&nbsp;Zigbee module&nbsp;to make the system operable by smart home systems.



There is a lot to like about track lighting. It looks good, gives great and versatile light coverage, and can be changed from time to time by swapping the heads. Its only real downside is the cost to set it up. Looks &#8211; 5/5, Energy efficiency &#8211; 4/5 thanks to energy efficient bulbs, and price &#8211; 3/5.



Fluorescent strips



Many older houses have older T12 or T8 light fittings in them. The T12 bulb is no longer available on the market, and the T8 is becoming increasingly difficult to find as households change to more on-trend lighting fixtures. These days, the new standard is LED, but some great fluorescent options are still available.



Fluorescent light comes in two basic types, linear (strip) and circular (tube). Both have their pros and cons. Linear (strip) fluorescent has a higher output per than the circular (tube) kind but is also more expensive.



We don&#8217;t offer any fittings for these bulb types, but if you&#8217;re looking for a place to find bulbs, we&#8217;ve got you covered here; head over to&nbsp;our fluorescent bulb section.



How we selected and reviewed the products



With over 1,000,000 products on our website, we selected the light fittings that caught our eye in either a practical or attractive manner. In our pendant category alone, we have almost 3500 products, so if the products we&#8217;ve picked out don&#8217;t suit your kitchen plans, you can be sure that we can show you something that will suit your needs.



What type of light is best in a small kitchen?



In terms of small kitchen lighting ideas, it is often best to use bright, overhead light fixtures in small kitchens to make the kitchen feel larger. If the small kitchen does not have a lot of natural light, it is also important to consider the effect shadows will have when working in the kitchen. You can use task lighting to minimize shadows in the kitchen, helping you to ensure that you can work safely with sharp tools when preparing food. Traditionally this has been achieved with fluorescent T12 and T8 light fixtures, which provide ample light to work with, albeit in rather unpleasant green-tinge. The best kitchen lighting for small kitchen areas currently tends toward recessed spotlights, thanks to their discreet design. We suggest that for low kitchen ceiling lighting ideas, you should avoid pendants and chandeliers and instead stick to recessed lighting or track lighting with small heads.



What are the best galley kitchen lighting ideas?



Lighting for galley kitchen areas should be designed to provide even light throughout the kitchen without creating shadows that make it difficult to work. In a galley kitchen, task lighting is particularly important, as countertops tend to be overshadowed by cupboards and have limited natural light. Recessed spotlights or track lighting are often the most practical options for galley kitchen lighting.



What type of light is best in a large kitchen?



Larger kitchens often have plenty of natural light, thanks to multiple windows. In these cases, it is best to take advantage of the natural light by using light fixtures that complement the sunlight. Ironically, they also have the most to offer in terms of wall and ceiling space, allowing you to experiment with a wider range of lighting solutions. Chandeliers, for example, look stunning in large kitchens with high ceilings.



Conclusion



When choosing the best lighting for your kitchen, there is a lot to consider. However, we hope this article has given you some ideas about the different types of light fixtures available and how you can use them to create the perfect lighting solution for your needs. If you&#8217;re still unsure what kind of light fixture is best for your kitchen, our team of experts would be more than happy to help; contact us, and we&#8217;ll be happy to offer our advice.



FAQs



What kind of lighting is best for a kitchen? The answer to that lies entirely in your tastes. There are more than 7 types of light fitting and thousands of products within each type. The best way to find what you&#8217;re looking for is to browse our website or contact us if you need help finding the perfect light fixture for your kitchen.  What is the best light for a kitchen ceiling? The best light for a kitchen ceiling provides an even, bright light throughout the kitchen. You can achieve this with various light fixtures, including chandeliers, recessed spotlights, and track lighting.  Is soft white or daylight better for kitchen? Soft (warm) light tends to be best used for areas of relaxation. For kitchen work, you want the most neutral daylight-balanced light you can obtain. Daylight balance bulbs (around 3500 Kelvin) will help you to see colours accurately as you&#8217;re working and help with safety when handling sharp implements.  How bright should a kitchen light be? You will want your light to be bright enough to allow you to work safely in the kitchen but not so bright that it is uncomfortable to work. We would suggest a minimum of 300 lumens for task lighting in the kitchen. The best lighting for dark kitchen spaces is to raise the ambient as much as possible and then use task lighting under the upper cabinets to illuminate the countertops. LED light strips are particularly good at this.

The best light for kitchens can vary depending on the size and layout of the kitchen and the amount of natural light that the kitchen receives. In general, however, certain lights work best in kitchen environments.

What is the best light for kitchens?


<p>Installing track lighting is a relatively easy do-it-yourself project that can add function and style to your home. They can illuminate a room, add extra light to a workspace or highlight a piece of art. Whatever your reason for installing track lighting, the process is essentially the same. With a few tools and some basic instructions, you can install track lighting in no time.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2022/08/rawkkim-ASgs9ve1ZjM-unsplash.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-3474" width="745" height="497"/></figure>



<h2><strong>How to install track lighting?</strong></h2>



<p>1. Begin by examining the location where you intend to install the track lighting. You&#8217;ll need to have a clear understanding of the area you&#8217;re working with before you can proceed. Measure the space&#8217;s length and width and note any obstacles that might be in the way.</p>



<p>2. Once you know the ceiling length you want to add lights to, choose the type of track lighting you want to install. Several different types are available on the market, so take some time to research your options before making a decision. For the remainder of this guide, we will assume that you need to know how to install track lighting without existing fixtures.</p>



<p>3. Track and connectors typically come in lengths of 1.2m or 2,4m long. Choose the size that best suits your needs. If you&#8217;re unsure, it&#8217;s always better to err on the side of caution and choose a longer track. You can always cut it down to size if necessary. Connectors allow your track to take any necessary turns on your ceiling. Connectors slide into the ends of the track pieces.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2022/08/shutterstock_1842778411.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-3475" width="735" height="490"/></figure>



<p>4. Cut the track to your desired length. Measure and mark the track. Use a hacksaw and a steady surface to ensure you create a straight cut.&nbsp;</p>



<p>5. Turn off the power at the breaker box to ensure that the area you plan to work in is safe. Before getting to work, turn on the lights where you are working to ensure there is no power running through the wires.</p>



<p>6. Remove the existing light fittings, carefully unscrewing and disconnecting the wires behind the fitting. Behind the fitting, you will discover the electrical box.</p>



<p>7. Most tracks will come with an installation kit containing all the necessary hardware. Connect the end power adapter to the exposed wires. The adapter will have wires of the same colour &#8211; simply marry the two together to complete the circuit using wire nuts. Put the wires into the electrical box and screw the mounting plate to the ceiling, leaving the power adapter hanging outside the electrical box.</p>



<p>8. Most tracks have two holes drilled into them at either end. These holes are for the mounting screws. Use a drill to create pilot holes in the ceiling where you plan to mount the track. The bit size should be slightly smaller than the mounting screws so that the threads can bite into the wood. We recommend you have someone to help you keep the track aligned.</p>



<p>9. Drill 9mm holes where your pilot holes are, ensuring they are wide enough to accommodate toggle bolts. The track needs to be close enough to the end power adapter to be fed into the track.&nbsp;</p>



<p>10. With the help of a friend, lift the track into place and screw it into the ceiling using toggle bolts. The weight of the track should be evenly distributed across the two toggle bolts.</p>



<p>11. With the track in place, insert the power adapter into the track. You will need to pay attention to the manufacturer&#8217;s instructions, as there are many different track variants.&nbsp;12. You can now install your chosen light fixtures. There are a <a href="https://buildiro.com/search?term=track+lights">wide variety of lights available for track lighting</a>, and you should check each manufacturer&#8217;s instructions on how to install track lighting heads. Start by attaching the connectors to either end of the track. Once they are in place, you can slide your light fixtures onto the track.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2022/08/shutterstock_698192152.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-3476" width="728" height="410"/></figure>



<h2><strong>Conclusion</strong></h2>



<p>Track lighting is a safe and easy way to add light to any room in your home. It&#8217;s relatively quick to switch out existing fixtures in place of track lights, and they are an ideal way to add focused light to a specific area. Most tracks come with all the necessary hardware included in the installation kit. All you need is a drill and a friend to help you get started. However, if you are uncertain of any aspect of the installation, seek a trained <a href="https://www.trustatrader.com/electricians" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">professional electrician.</a></p>



<h2>FAQs</h2>



<div class="schema-faq wp-block-yoast-faq-block"><div class="schema-faq-section" id="faq-question-1661507472190"><strong class="schema-faq-question"><strong>Can I install track lighting myself?</strong></strong> <p class="schema-faq-answer">Yes, it&#8217;s relatively simple, although we recommend working with someone else to help you hold the track in place for convenience and safety.</p> </div> <div class="schema-faq-section" id="faq-question-1661507492800"><strong class="schema-faq-question"><strong>Do you need a junction box for track lighting?</strong></strong> <p class="schema-faq-answer">If you want to know how to install track lighting without a junction box, the simple answer is that you cannot. The Junction box, or electrical box, is a legal requirement for any modern installation, which helps protect people from getting hurt by electricity and helps to prevent fire risks.</p> </div> <div class="schema-faq-section" id="faq-question-1661507508352"><strong class="schema-faq-question"><strong>How do I add track lighting?</strong></strong> <p class="schema-faq-answer">Follow our guide above to learn how to how to install track lighting without an existing fixture. Once fitted, the lights themselves require no additional special knowledge, in case you were wondering how to change a track light bulb.</p> </div> <div class="schema-faq-section" id="faq-question-1661507524200"><strong class="schema-faq-question"><strong>How much does track lighting cost?</strong></strong> <p class="schema-faq-answer">The answer depends on the size of the room, the type of track lighting you choose, and how many fixtures you need. However, as a ballpark figure, if you are curious about how much to install track lighting, we&#8217;d estimate typical costs of £100 &#8211; £210 for a track fixture, 2/3 attractive heads, and associated accessories.</p> </div> <div class="schema-faq-section" id="faq-question-1661507544950"><strong class="schema-faq-question"><strong>How do I install track lighting without an existing fixture?</strong></strong> <p class="schema-faq-answer">Fitting a track light without an existing fixture is often easier than using an existing one. Often, there is a compatibility problem between older track lights and modern lamps, so it&#8217;s easiest to start fresh. We&#8217;d recommend removing old fitting if you aren&#8217;t sure about compatibility and begin with a fresh installation, using our guide above.</p> </div> </div>


Installing track lighting is a relatively easy do-it-yourself project that can add function and style to your home. They can illuminate a room, add extra light to a workspace or highlight a piece of art. Whatever your reason for installing track lighting, the process is essentially the same. With a few tools and some basic instructions, you can install track lighting in no time.







How to install track lighting?



1. Begin by examining the location where you intend to install the track lighting. You&#8217;ll need to have a clear understanding of the area you&#8217;re working with before you can proceed. Measure the space&#8217;s length and width and note any obstacles that might be in the way.



2. Once you know the ceiling length you want to add lights to, choose the type of track lighting you want to install. Several different types are available on the market, so take some time to research your options before making a decision. For the remainder of this guide, we will assume that you need to know how to install track lighting without existing fixtures.



3. Track and connectors typically come in lengths of 1.2m or 2,4m long. Choose the size that best suits your needs. If you&#8217;re unsure, it&#8217;s always better to err on the side of caution and choose a longer track. You can always cut it down to size if necessary. Connectors allow your track to take any necessary turns on your ceiling. Connectors slide into the ends of the track pieces.







4. Cut the track to your desired length. Measure and mark the track. Use a hacksaw and a steady surface to ensure you create a straight cut.&nbsp;



5. Turn off the power at the breaker box to ensure that the area you plan to work in is safe. Before getting to work, turn on the lights where you are working to ensure there is no power running through the wires.



6. Remove the existing light fittings, carefully unscrewing and disconnecting the wires behind the fitting. Behind the fitting, you will discover the electrical box.



7. Most tracks will come with an installation kit containing all the necessary hardware. Connect the end power adapter to the exposed wires. The adapter will have wires of the same colour &#8211; simply marry the two together to complete the circuit using wire nuts. Put the wires into the electrical box and screw the mounting plate to the ceiling, leaving the power adapter hanging outside the electrical box.



8. Most tracks have two holes drilled into them at either end. These holes are for the mounting screws. Use a drill to create pilot holes in the ceiling where you plan to mount the track. The bit size should be slightly smaller than the mounting screws so that the threads can bite into the wood. We recommend you have someone to help you keep the track aligned.



9. Drill 9mm holes where your pilot holes are, ensuring they are wide enough to accommodate toggle bolts. The track needs to be close enough to the end power adapter to be fed into the track.&nbsp;



10. With the help of a friend, lift the track into place and screw it into the ceiling using toggle bolts. The weight of the track should be evenly distributed across the two toggle bolts.



11. With the track in place, insert the power adapter into the track. You will need to pay attention to the manufacturer&#8217;s instructions, as there are many different track variants.&nbsp;12. You can now install your chosen light fixtures. There are a wide variety of lights available for track lighting, and you should check each manufacturer&#8217;s instructions on how to install track lighting heads. Start by attaching the connectors to either end of the track. Once they are in place, you can slide your light fixtures onto the track.







Conclusion



Track lighting is a safe and easy way to add light to any room in your home. It&#8217;s relatively quick to switch out existing fixtures in place of track lights, and they are an ideal way to add focused light to a specific area. Most tracks come with all the necessary hardware included in the installation kit. All you need is a drill and a friend to help you get started. However, if you are uncertain of any aspect of the installation, seek a trained professional electrician.



FAQs



Can I install track lighting myself? Yes, it&#8217;s relatively simple, although we recommend working with someone else to help you hold the track in place for convenience and safety.  Do you need a junction box for track lighting? If you want to know how to install track lighting without a junction box, the simple answer is that you cannot. The Junction box, or electrical box, is a legal requirement for any modern installation, which helps protect people from getting hurt by electricity and helps to prevent fire risks.  How do I add track lighting? Follow our guide above to learn how to how to install track lighting without an existing fixture. Once fitted, the lights themselves require no additional special knowledge, in case you were wondering how to change a track light bulb.  How much does track lighting cost? The answer depends on the size of the room, the type of track lighting you choose, and how many fixtures you need. However, as a ballpark figure, if you are curious about how much to install track lighting, we&#8217;d estimate typical costs of £100 &#8211; £210 for a track fixture, 2/3 attractive heads, and associated accessories.  How do I install track lighting without an existing fixture? Fitting a track light without an existing fixture is often easier than using an existing one. Often, there is a compatibility problem between older track lights and modern lamps, so it&#8217;s easiest to start fresh. We&#8217;d recommend removing old fitting if you aren&#8217;t sure about compatibility and begin with a fresh installation, using our guide above.

Installing track lighting is a relatively easy do-it-yourself project that can add function and style to your home. They can illuminate a room, add extra light to a workspace or highlight a piece of art. Whatever your reason for installing track lighting, the process is essentially the same. With a few tools and some basic instructions, you can install track lighting in no time.

How to install track lighting


<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" width="1024" height="576" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/05/image-1024x576.png" alt="" class="wp-image-4619" srcset="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/05/image-1024x576.png 1024w, https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/05/image-300x169.png 300w, https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/05/image-768x432.png 768w, https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/05/image.png 1280w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p><strong>We asked Adam from <a href="https://www.flushplumbingandheating.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Flush Plumbing and Heating</a>:</strong></p>



<p>A power flush is a process of cleaning a central heating system by forcing water through the system at high velocity, while simultaneously removing the debris that has accumulated inside the system over time. The debris is made up of tiny iron filings which have broken away from the inside of the radiators. These iron filings congeal together and form into a black sludge-like consistency. There are several reasons why you might want to consider getting a power flush for your heating system:</p>



<p>1. Improved efficiency: Over time, sludge, rust, and debris can build up in your heating system, which can reduce its efficiency. A power flush can help remove this build-up, allowing your system to operate more efficiently and effectively.</p>



<p>2. Increased lifespan: A power flush can help to extend the lifespan of your heating system by removing debris that can cause damage to the system over time. This can help to reduce the need for costly repairs and replacements in the future.</p>



<p>3. Improved heating performance: If you have noticed that your heating system is not working as well as it used to, a power flush can help to restore its performance. By removing the debris that is causing blockages and reducing the flow of water through the system, a power flush can help to improve the circulation of hot water around your home.</p>



<p>4. Cost savings: By improving the efficiency of your heating system, a power flush can help to reduce your energy bills, as your system will need to work less hard to achieve the desired temperature. Additionally, by extending the lifespan of your heating system, a power flush can help to reduce the need for costly repairs and replacements in the future.</p>



<p>Overall, a power flush can be a worthwhile investment for homeowners looking to improve the efficiency, lifespan, and performance of their heating system while also potentially reducing their energy bills and maintenance costs.</p>



<p>When you change your boiler it’s essential to get you system clean to validate the warranty on your boiler. You may be recommended a chemical flush or a power flush. If you’re unsure which type of flush you require and want to ensure you’re not ripped off you can read about the differences <a href="https://www.flushplumbingandheating.co.uk/cleaning-products/power-flush-vs-chemical-flush-the-ultimate-comparison/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">here</a>. </p>


We asked Adam from Flush Plumbing and Heating:



A power flush is a process of cleaning a central heating system by forcing water through the system at high velocity, while simultaneously removing the debris that has accumulated inside the system over time. The debris is made up of tiny iron filings which have broken away from the inside of the radiators. These iron filings congeal together and form into a black sludge-like consistency. There are several reasons why you might want to consider getting a power flush for your heating system:



1. Improved efficiency: Over time, sludge, rust, and debris can build up in your heating system, which can reduce its efficiency. A power flush can help remove this build-up, allowing your system to operate more efficiently and effectively.



2. Increased lifespan: A power flush can help to extend the lifespan of your heating system by removing debris that can cause damage to the system over time. This can help to reduce the need for costly repairs and replacements in the future.



3. Improved heating performance: If you have noticed that your heating system is not working as well as it used to, a power flush can help to restore its performance. By removing the debris that is causing blockages and reducing the flow of water through the system, a power flush can help to improve the circulation of hot water around your home.



4. Cost savings: By improving the efficiency of your heating system, a power flush can help to reduce your energy bills, as your system will need to work less hard to achieve the desired temperature. Additionally, by extending the lifespan of your heating system, a power flush can help to reduce the need for costly repairs and replacements in the future.



Overall, a power flush can be a worthwhile investment for homeowners looking to improve the efficiency, lifespan, and performance of their heating system while also potentially reducing their energy bills and maintenance costs.



When you change your boiler it’s essential to get you system clean to validate the warranty on your boiler. You may be recommended a chemical flush or a power flush. If you’re unsure which type of flush you require and want to ensure you’re not ripped off you can read about the differences here. 

Discover the benefits of power flushing your heating system in this blog post! Learn how it improves efficiency, saves money, prolongs system life, and maintains optimal performance. Keep your home cozy and warm, the smart way.






Why should I power flush my heating system?


<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2022/12/Untitled-design-3.webp" alt="drill into tile" class="wp-image-4248" width="607" height="341"/></figure>



<p>If possible, it is always better to punch holes in <a href="https://buildiro.com/category/wall-tiles">tiles</a> before sticking. In the case of drilling, however, this is usually not possible. Most often, we need to drill a hole exactly in such a place that, for example, a shelf or some product from a wire program, as well as a sink, fits exactly. Therefore, we first glue and solder and drill to the end.</p>



<h2> No hammering! </h2>



<p>If you want every tile you need to drill to be guaranteed to crack, turn on hammering. No, don&#8217;t really do that. Ceramic tiles are guaranteed to crack as well as hard concrete tiles, for which you often need a drill with a diamond (carbide) punching tip (the so-called crown drill bit). Yes, the reason why a beginner turns on the hammer is often the fact that it is not possible to drill into a hard concrete tile with an ordinary drill, the so-called fork, the material resists. But turning on the hammer immediately turns out to be a fatal mistake. By the way, without impact, we also have to drill into hollow bricks so that the partitions inside do not break and even into solid bricks so that they do not crack. We also have to start drilling without impact if we do not know what the wall was built of, and the hammer can be easily switched on at any time.</p>



<h2>Masonry and concrete drill bits</h2>



<p>Masonry and concrete drill bits are most often made of alloyed tool steel and have a soldered carbide plate (SK slice or carbide) on the tip.  However, we can also use a more gentle and accurate crown drill bit. The second thing is the method of clamping the drill bit in the drill. The drill bit may have a conventional cylindrical shank, due to which it can move in the chuck. For more demanding and precise drilling, drill bits with SDS shank are therefore more suitable.Due to its grooved shape, this shank does not twist in the drill. However, not every drill allows you to use drills with an SDS shank, just as it is necessary to buy a chuck for drills and breakers that count with SDS. There are two types of SDS shank: SDS Plus (SDS ) and SDS Max. The SDS shank has a diameter of 10 mm and is usually used by drill bits up to 30 mm. Larger drill bits have an SDS Max shank with a diameter of 18 mm. They are designed for heavy hammer drills (combination of hammer and drill).</p>



<h2>Drill bits for specific holes</h2>



<p>Crown drill bits are made for different diameters of punched holes. From the diameter of the hole for a conventional dowel to the holes for switches, sockets, pipes and drains. Even crown (punching) drill bits differ according to the surface into which they are to drill, i.e. to cut (wood, sheet metal, tiles, masonry and plasterboard). Crown drill bits offer more resistance, so we need a more powerful machine for them. There are also tapered drill bits, which we use to drill a tapered hole, and stepped drill bits, where we can drill holes of multiple diameters with one tool. However, in the case of drilling in tiles and masonry, these types of drill bits are usually not used. What we should be extremely interested in now are crown drill bits designed for ceramic tiles and crown drill bits designed for drilling in particularly hard concrete tiles.These drill bits have a carbide tip that forms clean and regular holes without the risk of chipping the tile. If we use them (of course, drilling is fundamentally without impact, we are carving), the tile should never crack if it is well glued. Drilling in areas of the tile where there is a larger cavity under the tile increases the risk of the tile cracking up to 100%, regardless of the drilling method and drill type.</p>



<h2>Don&#8217;t have a crown drill? We have a simple trick&#8230;</h2>



<p>When you are sure of the exact place where you need to drill without impact with an ordinary masonry drill bit, stick ordinary painting tape on the appropriate places. Then precisely measure the places for the hole and draw, usually drawing with two strokes of pencil or marker a cross into the center of which we drill. If possible, do not drill into the joints, but into the tile surface, when drilling into joints, tiles are most often chipped or cracks occur. By sticking the painter&#8217;s tape, we will prevent not only the tile from cracking, but also the drill from slipping on a smooth surface. Of course, other materials can also be used, such as a piece of cork or hardened paper, which we attach to the tile with tape.Now there is nothing left to do but drill a sufficiently deep hole without impact. If there is a stone under the tiles and plaster, in the end we will have to turn on the hammer, but only after the tiles and plaster are drilled. In this case, it is better to drill a larger hole in the tile (e.g. 10 mm) and choose an 8 mm drill before hammering into the stone. When drilling with impact, the drill vibrates in addition to rotating, and in order to prevent the tile from cracking, it is necessary to do the maximum. However, a skilful <a href="http://www.checkatrade.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">tradesman</a> will carefully make the entire hole with one drill. This is followed by insertion of wall plugs and screwing.</p>



<h2>When the tile does crack</h2>



<p>And if the tile has cracked, there is nothing left but to carefully chop it off so that the tiles around are not damaged, thoroughly remove the glue and glue the new tile. The work will be manual using a sharp hammer and hammer, the drill hammer is used to demolish entire surfaces, not for minor repairs of finished tiles.</p>


If possible, it is always better to punch holes in tiles before sticking. In the case of drilling, however, this is usually not possible. Most often, we need to drill a hole exactly in such a place that, for example, a shelf or some product from a wire program, as well as a sink, fits exactly. Therefore, we first glue and solder and drill to the end.



 No hammering! 



If you want every tile you need to drill to be guaranteed to crack, turn on hammering. No, don&#8217;t really do that. Ceramic tiles are guaranteed to crack as well as hard concrete tiles, for which you often need a drill with a diamond (carbide) punching tip (the so-called crown drill bit). Yes, the reason why a beginner turns on the hammer is often the fact that it is not possible to drill into a hard concrete tile with an ordinary drill, the so-called fork, the material resists. But turning on the hammer immediately turns out to be a fatal mistake. By the way, without impact, we also have to drill into hollow bricks so that the partitions inside do not break and even into solid bricks so that they do not crack. We also have to start drilling without impact if we do not know what the wall was built of, and the hammer can be easily switched on at any time.



Masonry and concrete drill bits



Masonry and concrete drill bits are most often made of alloyed tool steel and have a soldered carbide plate (SK slice or carbide) on the tip.  However, we can also use a more gentle and accurate crown drill bit. The second thing is the method of clamping the drill bit in the drill. The drill bit may have a conventional cylindrical shank, due to which it can move in the chuck. For more demanding and precise drilling, drill bits with SDS shank are therefore more suitable.Due to its grooved shape, this shank does not twist in the drill. However, not every drill allows you to use drills with an SDS shank, just as it is necessary to buy a chuck for drills and breakers that count with SDS. There are two types of SDS shank: SDS Plus (SDS ) and SDS Max. The SDS shank has a diameter of 10 mm and is usually used by drill bits up to 30 mm. Larger drill bits have an SDS Max shank with a diameter of 18 mm. They are designed for heavy hammer drills (combination of hammer and drill).



Drill bits for specific holes



Crown drill bits are made for different diameters of punched holes. From the diameter of the hole for a conventional dowel to the holes for switches, sockets, pipes and drains. Even crown (punching) drill bits differ according to the surface into which they are to drill, i.e. to cut (wood, sheet metal, tiles, masonry and plasterboard). Crown drill bits offer more resistance, so we need a more powerful machine for them. There are also tapered drill bits, which we use to drill a tapered hole, and stepped drill bits, where we can drill holes of multiple diameters with one tool. However, in the case of drilling in tiles and masonry, these types of drill bits are usually not used. What we should be extremely interested in now are crown drill bits designed for ceramic tiles and crown drill bits designed for drilling in particularly hard concrete tiles.These drill bits have a carbide tip that forms clean and regular holes without the risk of chipping the tile. If we use them (of course, drilling is fundamentally without impact, we are carving), the tile should never crack if it is well glued. Drilling in areas of the tile where there is a larger cavity under the tile increases the risk of the tile cracking up to 100%, regardless of the drilling method and drill type.



Don&#8217;t have a crown drill? We have a simple trick&#8230;



When you are sure of the exact place where you need to drill without impact with an ordinary masonry drill bit, stick ordinary painting tape on the appropriate places. Then precisely measure the places for the hole and draw, usually drawing with two strokes of pencil or marker a cross into the center of which we drill. If possible, do not drill into the joints, but into the tile surface, when drilling into joints, tiles are most often chipped or cracks occur. By sticking the painter&#8217;s tape, we will prevent not only the tile from cracking, but also the drill from slipping on a smooth surface. Of course, other materials can also be used, such as a piece of cork or hardened paper, which we attach to the tile with tape.Now there is nothing left to do but drill a sufficiently deep hole without impact. If there is a stone under the tiles and plaster, in the end we will have to turn on the hammer, but only after the tiles and plaster are drilled. In this case, it is better to drill a larger hole in the tile (e.g. 10 mm) and choose an 8 mm drill before hammering into the stone. When drilling with impact, the drill vibrates in addition to rotating, and in order to prevent the tile from cracking, it is necessary to do the maximum. However, a skilful tradesman will carefully make the entire hole with one drill. This is followed by insertion of wall plugs and screwing.



When the tile does crack



And if the tile has cracked, there is nothing left but to carefully chop it off so that the tiles around are not damaged, thoroughly remove the glue and glue the new tile. The work will be manual using a sharp hammer and hammer, the drill hammer is used to demolish entire surfaces, not for minor repairs of finished tiles.

If possible, it is always better to punch holes in tiles before sticking. In the case of drilling, however, this is usually not possible. Most often, we need to drill a hole exactly in such a place that, for example, a shelf or some product from a wire program, as well as a sink, fits exactly. Therefore, we first glue and solder and drill to the end.

How to Drill Into Tiles?

Andrea


<p>It is clear that mould on walls or mould on windows is not desirable in a house. Mould is harmful to health, not only for those with allergies. It most commonly causes breathing problems, asthma, allergies, skin issues, as well as headaches and sleep problems. The fact is that the main cause of mould growth is excessive moisture in the apartment. Typically, this is a problem for older houses, but it can also occur in apartments in panel houses or new buildings (the so-called sick building syndrome).</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/05/Untitled-design-30.webp" alt="how to get rid of mould" class="wp-image-4604" width="548" height="308"/></figure>



<p>Whether you already have mould on the walls (often in the corners of the room and around windows) or you are concerned about mould and want to take preventive measures, the key is to ventilate the room. The ideal humidity in the apartment is 40-60%, when it is higher, it becomes a problem. You can use a home hygrometer to measure the air humidity. High air humidity is often indicated by condensation on windows, and you may feel it in the air.</p>



<p>In general, it is also true that moisture and mould thrive in colder apartments. So if you are trying to save heating costs these days and not heating some rooms at all, high humidity and subsequent mould growth can be a consequence.</p>



<h2>Tips for Reducing Humidity and Ventilating Your Flat</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/05/Untitled-design-31.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-4606" width="591" height="332"/></figure>



<p>To reduce the humidity in your apartment and thus limit mould on the walls, you need to ventilate properly. In the summer, it&#8217;s best to leave the ventilation open (at least with a micro-ventilation), and in the winter, ventilate several times a day, briefly and intensively, for example, by opening the windows in the room wide open for 5 minutes.</p>



<p>Other preventive measures include drying clothes in a dryer or outside, using an extractor fan when cooking (ideally a few minutes before you start cooking), and using a fan in the bathroom when showering or bathing (if there is a window, be sure to properly ventilate the bathroom afterwards).</p>



<h2>How to get rid of mould on walls without chemicals</h2>



<p>The basis for prevention is proper ventilation and humidity reduction. However, if you already have mould on the walls, it&#8217;s appropriate to treat the affected area with an anti-mould spray (then ventilate thoroughly again). This typically reliably removes small patches of mould in room corners. If you want to avoid stronger chemicals, you can use the following remedies, some of which our grandmothers used against mould &#8211; bleach, vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, or borax solution.</p>



<p><strong>However, the key is to solve the cause of mould growth.</strong></p>



<h2>When to get a dehumidifier</h2>



<p>If you follow the tips above regarding ventilation, drying laundry, using an extractor fan, and bathroom fan, and yet the humidity in your flat remains high, it&#8217;s time to get a household dehumidifier. You can choose between condensing or desiccant dehumidifiers.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/05/Screenshot-2023-05-02-at-16.26.50.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-4607" width="422" height="480"/><figcaption><a href="https://buildiro.com/product/7332857500963/Wood-S-10l-Dehumidifier-Mrd10" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Wood&#8217;s 10L Dehumidifier Mrd10</a></figcaption></figure>



<p>Condensing <a href="https://buildiro.com/product/3663602459255/Blyss-0-3l-Dehumidifier">dehumidifiers</a> are the most common choice, where air passes through the device, and the water from the air is condensed and collected in a tank (which can hold several litres of water during the day). Dehumidifiers can also be equipped with filters against mould and dust, thus purifying the air. They are mobile devices, so you can move them around the flat according to your needs.</p>



<p>When choosing a dehumidifier, you need to consider the size of the rooms you will be dehumidifying, air humidity, indoor temperature, and noise level. Modern dehumidifiers have a timer and offer several usage modes, for example, they can run continuously until the set air humidity is reached or even intelligently select the optimal air humidity depending on the current temperature in the room.</p>



<h2>Summary</h2>



<p>This blog post highlights the health risks of mould in homes, including breathing problems, allergies, and sleep issues. The main cause of mould growth is excessive moisture, which can be found in older houses and even new buildings. To prevent mould, it is crucial to maintain proper ventilation and humidity levels (40-60%) in your home. Tips for reducing humidity include proper ventilation, drying clothes outdoors or in a dryer, using extractor fans while cooking, and using a bathroom fan when showering. If mould is already present, it can be treated with anti-mould spray or natural remedies like bleach or vinegar. If humidity remains high despite following these tips, consider investing in a dehumidifier, which can help maintain ideal humidity levels and even filter out mould and dust particles.</p>


It is clear that mould on walls or mould on windows is not desirable in a house. Mould is harmful to health, not only for those with allergies. It most commonly causes breathing problems, asthma, allergies, skin issues, as well as headaches and sleep problems. The fact is that the main cause of mould growth is excessive moisture in the apartment. Typically, this is a problem for older houses, but it can also occur in apartments in panel houses or new buildings (the so-called sick building syndrome).







Whether you already have mould on the walls (often in the corners of the room and around windows) or you are concerned about mould and want to take preventive measures, the key is to ventilate the room. The ideal humidity in the apartment is 40-60%, when it is higher, it becomes a problem. You can use a home hygrometer to measure the air humidity. High air humidity is often indicated by condensation on windows, and you may feel it in the air.



In general, it is also true that moisture and mould thrive in colder apartments. So if you are trying to save heating costs these days and not heating some rooms at all, high humidity and subsequent mould growth can be a consequence.



Tips for Reducing Humidity and Ventilating Your Flat







To reduce the humidity in your apartment and thus limit mould on the walls, you need to ventilate properly. In the summer, it&#8217;s best to leave the ventilation open (at least with a micro-ventilation), and in the winter, ventilate several times a day, briefly and intensively, for example, by opening the windows in the room wide open for 5 minutes.



Other preventive measures include drying clothes in a dryer or outside, using an extractor fan when cooking (ideally a few minutes before you start cooking), and using a fan in the bathroom when showering or bathing (if there is a window, be sure to properly ventilate the bathroom afterwards).



How to get rid of mould on walls without chemicals



The basis for prevention is proper ventilation and humidity reduction. However, if you already have mould on the walls, it&#8217;s appropriate to treat the affected area with an anti-mould spray (then ventilate thoroughly again). This typically reliably removes small patches of mould in room corners. If you want to avoid stronger chemicals, you can use the following remedies, some of which our grandmothers used against mould &#8211; bleach, vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, or borax solution.



However, the key is to solve the cause of mould growth.



When to get a dehumidifier



If you follow the tips above regarding ventilation, drying laundry, using an extractor fan, and bathroom fan, and yet the humidity in your flat remains high, it&#8217;s time to get a household dehumidifier. You can choose between condensing or desiccant dehumidifiers.



Wood&#8217;s 10L Dehumidifier Mrd10



Condensing dehumidifiers are the most common choice, where air passes through the device, and the water from the air is condensed and collected in a tank (which can hold several litres of water during the day). Dehumidifiers can also be equipped with filters against mould and dust, thus purifying the air. They are mobile devices, so you can move them around the flat according to your needs.



When choosing a dehumidifier, you need to consider the size of the rooms you will be dehumidifying, air humidity, indoor temperature, and noise level. Modern dehumidifiers have a timer and offer several usage modes, for example, they can run continuously until the set air humidity is reached or even intelligently select the optimal air humidity depending on the current temperature in the room.



Summary



This blog post highlights the health risks of mould in homes, including breathing problems, allergies, and sleep issues. The main cause of mould growth is excessive moisture, which can be found in older houses and even new buildings. To prevent mould, it is crucial to maintain proper ventilation and humidity levels (40-60%) in your home. Tips for reducing humidity include proper ventilation, drying clothes outdoors or in a dryer, using extractor fans while cooking, and using a bathroom fan when showering. If mould is already present, it can be treated with anti-mould spray or natural remedies like bleach or vinegar. If humidity remains high despite following these tips, consider investing in a dehumidifier, which can help maintain ideal humidity levels and even filter out mould and dust particles.

Beat mould in your home! Discover ventilation tips, natural remedies, and dehumidifier advice for a healthy, mould-free living space. 🏠💨🍃

How to Get Rid of Mould in a Room


<p>A bathtub, a space for cleansing the body, has a natural tendency to become dirty. This is not only due to our own organic impurities when we wash, but also from dried and hardened stains and buildup that literally grow on the smooth surface as if from nowhere. It only takes a moment of inattention or neglecting regular cleaning, and they appear. Getting rid of them can be difficult. To effectively remove them, you need to know their origin.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/Untitled-design-26.webp" alt="clean bath" class="wp-image-4598" width="710" height="399"/></figure>



<p>Removing stains from a bathtub depends on two interconnected details. Firstly, the type of mineral that caused the stain or buildup, and secondly, the material from which the bathtub is made. Incorrect cleaning methods can damage the surface of the bathtub more than the specific stain. And that&#8217;s certainly not what you want. Bathtubs are made from various materials nowadays, with designer solid wood, rough stone, cast marble, or basalt glass being trendy options.</p>



<p>However, these materials are still relatively uncommon despite their aesthetic appearance. The standard bathtub is still mostly made of enameled steel, acrylic, or reinforced ceramics. It is generally true that ceramics are more resistant to abrasion (scratching, rubbing, sanding), whereas with acrylic and enamel, a bit more care is needed to avoid damaging the relatively thin surface.</p>



<h2>How Stains are Formed</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/Untitled-design-25.webp" alt="bath lime scale" class="wp-image-4597" width="587" height="329"/></figure>



<p>Mineral stains in the bathtub are formed by a combination of several factors. Perhaps the most significant factor is the hardness/softness of the water and its pH, which affects the formation of limescale. The design of the plumbing and faucet also play a role, as they can stimulate certain chemical reactions when combined with water. The quality of the faucet/seal, which prevents continuous dripping of water, is also a factor.</p>



<p>More than theoretically, the frequency of bathtub usage also matters (for example, in a summer apartment, it will not be used as often), as well as the average water temperature (higher temperatures promote mineralization). Your specific bodily impurities and the composition of cosmetics and hygiene products used can also contribute to a cocktail of process chemistry. Of course, bacteria can also play a role.</p>



<p>All of this goes hand in hand with how you keep the bathtub clean on a regular basis. For example, if you dry it thoroughly after each use, if the bathroom is well-ventilated or has a high level of condensation and humidity. Ideally, cleaning the bathtub from dust, dirt, soap residue, and shampoo should be done once a week. When all of this comes together (or fails to come together), it can lead to sedimentation, precipitation, corrosion, and mineralization.</p>



<h2>Stains According to Colours</h2>



<p>Reddish-brown and orange stains indicate that the cause of the stain is iron, iron-rich water, or rust. Rust-colored or bluish-green stains are usually caused by low water pH, which makes it more acidic. Such water has increased corrosive effects. Black spots are usually caused by a combination of various factors, with sulfur playing a significant role. Yellow stains usually indicate a critical accumulation of various types of grease, originating from the &#8220;human source&#8221; and the cosmetics used.</p>



<p>In general, the most common problems are with orange and yellow stains. Orange-rusty water usually suggests that your boiler or old piping is rusting. Yellow indicates that the problem is in the bathroom and the cleaning products you most frequently use. Even completely atypical colors such as pink, purple, or green can appear. However, their formation is usually not due to mineralization, but rather to dripping colors from clothing that you sometimes dry above the bathtub. They can also &#8220;eat&#8221; into the surface, but can be removed.</p>



<h2>Cleaning Atains According to Colour</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/Untitled-design-24.webp" alt="bath lime scale" class="wp-image-4596" width="715" height="401"/></figure>



<ul><li>To remove stubborn red or black stains, use the brightening power of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide. Mix two parts baking soda and one part hydrogen peroxide to create a paste. Apply in a layer, leave on for 20-30 minutes, then scrub with a brush. No, do not try this on acrylic tubs, as it will damage their surface.</li></ul>



<ul><li>Orange stains can be effectively removed with bleach. Apply, leave on for 10-15 minutes, then rinse with lukewarm water and scrub. Not suitable for acrylic tubs.</li></ul>



<ul><li>For rust and bluish-green stains, use an abrasive cleaner or scrubbing powder, in combination with a rougher sponge (rubber, melanin). Again, not suitable for acrylic tubs.</li></ul>



<ul><li>Yellow stains and grease can be eliminated with the help of weak acid, vinegar. White vinegar. Pour vinegar diluted 1:1 with water into a spray bottle, spray on the surface of the stain, let it sit for a while, then wipe off. You can safely use vinegar even on acrylic tubs.</li></ul>



<ul><li>Universal chemical cleaners and bleaches &#8211; work perfectly on all types of stains, but read their labels carefully. Not all are gentle on acrylic tubs.</li></ul>



<ul><li>Tricky colored stains from textiles &#8211; definitely do not use fabric bleach, as it can damage the surface of the tub or enamel. However, vinegar or a paste made from baking soda and lemon juice should do the trick.</li></ul>



<h2>Stains by Composition</h2>



<ul><li>Usual and dried soap and shampoo residues that create unsightly crusts? Try a mixture of borax and lemon juice on them. Apply, leave for 10 minutes, scrub with a cloth, rinse and wipe dry.</li></ul>



<ul><li>Precipitated limescale that does not cause drips but unsightly crusts? Industrial acid-based cleaners can help. First, slightly dampen the stain, apply, wipe, rinse, and dry. Do not leave it for longer than 1 minute, and do not use it on plastic tubs.</li></ul>



<ul><li>Rust on metal parts, in the bathtub drain &#8211; it is possible to remove it with hydrogen peroxide and scrubbing with pumice or a rough brush.</li></ul>



<ul><li>Black and green molds &#8211; bleaching or toilet cleaner gel can help. It is best to spray corners and hard-to-reach areas with a spray or aerosol, and cover the surface with a paper towel to prevent dripping.</li></ul>



<h2>Summary</h2>



<p>Removing stains from a bathtub is not a problem, often with the help of commonly available household items, if you know what is causing them. It is also worth mentioning that acrylic bathtubs are accessible in terms of design and price, but they are much more susceptible to harsh cleaning methods.</p>



<p>And of course &#8211; you should definitely not skip regular bathtub cleaning. Only by doing this can you save yourself a lot of unnecessary extra work. After each use, it is advisable to thoroughly rinse the bathtub and wash away any soap, shower gel, shampoo, and dirt residues. A more thorough cleaning of the bathtub should be done once a week. However, be gentle while doing this.</p>



<p>Overly radical cleaning methods (such as various recommendations to fill the bathtub with water, pour X liters of vinegar into it, and let it stand overnight) can negatively affect the quality of the bathtub surface. The worn surface might look cleaner for a while, but it would get dirty more easily and its lifespan would be reduced.</p>


A bathtub, a space for cleansing the body, has a natural tendency to become dirty. This is not only due to our own organic impurities when we wash, but also from dried and hardened stains and buildup that literally grow on the smooth surface as if from nowhere. It only takes a moment of inattention or neglecting regular cleaning, and they appear. Getting rid of them can be difficult. To effectively remove them, you need to know their origin.







Removing stains from a bathtub depends on two interconnected details. Firstly, the type of mineral that caused the stain or buildup, and secondly, the material from which the bathtub is made. Incorrect cleaning methods can damage the surface of the bathtub more than the specific stain. And that&#8217;s certainly not what you want. Bathtubs are made from various materials nowadays, with designer solid wood, rough stone, cast marble, or basalt glass being trendy options.



However, these materials are still relatively uncommon despite their aesthetic appearance. The standard bathtub is still mostly made of enameled steel, acrylic, or reinforced ceramics. It is generally true that ceramics are more resistant to abrasion (scratching, rubbing, sanding), whereas with acrylic and enamel, a bit more care is needed to avoid damaging the relatively thin surface.



How Stains are Formed







Mineral stains in the bathtub are formed by a combination of several factors. Perhaps the most significant factor is the hardness/softness of the water and its pH, which affects the formation of limescale. The design of the plumbing and faucet also play a role, as they can stimulate certain chemical reactions when combined with water. The quality of the faucet/seal, which prevents continuous dripping of water, is also a factor.



More than theoretically, the frequency of bathtub usage also matters (for example, in a summer apartment, it will not be used as often), as well as the average water temperature (higher temperatures promote mineralization). Your specific bodily impurities and the composition of cosmetics and hygiene products used can also contribute to a cocktail of process chemistry. Of course, bacteria can also play a role.



All of this goes hand in hand with how you keep the bathtub clean on a regular basis. For example, if you dry it thoroughly after each use, if the bathroom is well-ventilated or has a high level of condensation and humidity. Ideally, cleaning the bathtub from dust, dirt, soap residue, and shampoo should be done once a week. When all of this comes together (or fails to come together), it can lead to sedimentation, precipitation, corrosion, and mineralization.



Stains According to Colours



Reddish-brown and orange stains indicate that the cause of the stain is iron, iron-rich water, or rust. Rust-colored or bluish-green stains are usually caused by low water pH, which makes it more acidic. Such water has increased corrosive effects. Black spots are usually caused by a combination of various factors, with sulfur playing a significant role. Yellow stains usually indicate a critical accumulation of various types of grease, originating from the &#8220;human source&#8221; and the cosmetics used.



In general, the most common problems are with orange and yellow stains. Orange-rusty water usually suggests that your boiler or old piping is rusting. Yellow indicates that the problem is in the bathroom and the cleaning products you most frequently use. Even completely atypical colors such as pink, purple, or green can appear. However, their formation is usually not due to mineralization, but rather to dripping colors from clothing that you sometimes dry above the bathtub. They can also &#8220;eat&#8221; into the surface, but can be removed.



Cleaning Atains According to Colour







To remove stubborn red or black stains, use the brightening power of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide. Mix two parts baking soda and one part hydrogen peroxide to create a paste. Apply in a layer, leave on for 20-30 minutes, then scrub with a brush. No, do not try this on acrylic tubs, as it will damage their surface.



Orange stains can be effectively removed with bleach. Apply, leave on for 10-15 minutes, then rinse with lukewarm water and scrub. Not suitable for acrylic tubs.



For rust and bluish-green stains, use an abrasive cleaner or scrubbing powder, in combination with a rougher sponge (rubber, melanin). Again, not suitable for acrylic tubs.



Yellow stains and grease can be eliminated with the help of weak acid, vinegar. White vinegar. Pour vinegar diluted 1:1 with water into a spray bottle, spray on the surface of the stain, let it sit for a while, then wipe off. You can safely use vinegar even on acrylic tubs.



Universal chemical cleaners and bleaches &#8211; work perfectly on all types of stains, but read their labels carefully. Not all are gentle on acrylic tubs.



Tricky colored stains from textiles &#8211; definitely do not use fabric bleach, as it can damage the surface of the tub or enamel. However, vinegar or a paste made from baking soda and lemon juice should do the trick.



Stains by Composition



Usual and dried soap and shampoo residues that create unsightly crusts? Try a mixture of borax and lemon juice on them. Apply, leave for 10 minutes, scrub with a cloth, rinse and wipe dry.



Precipitated limescale that does not cause drips but unsightly crusts? Industrial acid-based cleaners can help. First, slightly dampen the stain, apply, wipe, rinse, and dry. Do not leave it for longer than 1 minute, and do not use it on plastic tubs.



Rust on metal parts, in the bathtub drain &#8211; it is possible to remove it with hydrogen peroxide and scrubbing with pumice or a rough brush.



Black and green molds &#8211; bleaching or toilet cleaner gel can help. It is best to spray corners and hard-to-reach areas with a spray or aerosol, and cover the surface with a paper towel to prevent dripping.



Summary



Removing stains from a bathtub is not a problem, often with the help of commonly available household items, if you know what is causing them. It is also worth mentioning that acrylic bathtubs are accessible in terms of design and price, but they are much more susceptible to harsh cleaning methods.



And of course &#8211; you should definitely not skip regular bathtub cleaning. Only by doing this can you save yourself a lot of unnecessary extra work. After each use, it is advisable to thoroughly rinse the bathtub and wash away any soap, shower gel, shampoo, and dirt residues. A more thorough cleaning of the bathtub should be done once a week. However, be gentle while doing this.



Overly radical cleaning methods (such as various recommendations to fill the bathtub with water, pour X liters of vinegar into it, and let it stand overnight) can negatively affect the quality of the bathtub surface. The worn surface might look cleaner for a while, but it would get dirty more easily and its lifespan would be reduced.

Discover expert tips on how to effectively clean your bathtub, using gentle methods and household items to maintain its pristine condition and longevity

How to Remove Stains from a Bathtub? The Colour of the Buildup Will Advise You on Which Cleaning Method to Choose

Luke


<p>The advantage of modern dry construction in today&#8217;s world is that there is a solution for almost all levels of humidity. The problem lies only in choosing the appropriate material for a specific environment, as there are many real-life situations. The specific board material is theoretically chosen for constructions depending on the intensity of moisture exposure in the given environment. The good news is that KNAUF has several system solutions prepared for this purpose, which are capable of completely covering the needs of the construction.</p>



<h2>Plasterboards for regular bathrooms with humidity up to 75%</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/Untitled-design-22.webp" alt="plasterboard for damp enviroments" class="wp-image-4589" width="771" height="433"/><figcaption>&#8220;Green&#8221; plasterboard is best for most common bathrooms</figcaption></figure>



<p>In a typical bathroom with normal usage patterns, there is considerable moisture exposure, but usually not long-term. To be specific, the humidity in such a bathroom reaches 75% sometimes even 100%. However, if it does not exceed a period of two hours, there is nothing to worry about if we choose the impregnated Knauf Core Board together with impregnated jointing compounds (such as Uniflott Imprägniert) for the construction. The characteristic of this board with impregnated cardboard is its ability to absorb moisture up to a maximum of 10% of its weight. So it is really resistant even in such an environment. The second alternative is to choose the Knauf DIAMANT board, which excels in other criteria such as acoustic or fire-resistant properties, as well as strength and hardness.</p>



<h2>Board for extreme moisture exposure</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" width="508" height="330" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/Screenshot-2023-04-30-at-15.17.15.webp" alt="aquapanel " class="wp-image-4590"/><figcaption>Aquapanel Knauf</figcaption></figure>



<p>When you need to be absolutely sure that the construction will withstand even in a room that will be exposed to almost 100% humidity or water splashing, and reliable intensive ventilation is not possible, you have only one option &#8211; a cement-based board. Knauf AQUAPANEL (INDOOR or OUTDOOR) is a 100% waterproof board that can withstand intensive moisture exposure. In addition to not swelling and being dimensionally stable in damp conditions, this board is resistant to mold and can be safely used outdoors in the OUTDOOR variant. AQUAPANEL is a uncompromising solution with a high level of reliability. It finds practical use in wellness centers, pools, hospitals, public showers, and similar places. This board is also easy to work with as it can be cut with a knife and attached with self-tapping screws.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/Untitled-design-23.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-4591" width="742" height="417"/><figcaption>Aquapanel is directly suitable for use in wellness centers</figcaption></figure>



<h2>Example from practice: Unventilated ceiling above the shower area in the bathroom</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" width="650" height="278" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/Screenshot-2023-04-30-at-15.21.31.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-4592"/><figcaption>An additional solution to the problem of mould in the bathroom of an apartment with poor ventilation in the shower area is a new ceiling with Knauf AQUAPANEL board, which completely eliminates the mould growth. Source: Ceskestavby.cz</figcaption></figure>



<p>For a traditional family bathroom, it is recommended to use DRYSTAR or even <a href="https://buildiro.com/product/4260021862117/Knauf-Aquapanel-Floor-Tile-Underlay-1200mm-X-900mm-X-6mm" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">AQUAPANEL</a> instead of the GREEN board in the ceiling above the shower area. This is an area where humidity during showering exceeds the specified limit of 75%. If the space under the ceiling is not intensively ventilated because there is no fan, or it is inappropriately placed (sometimes even 10 to 15 cm away from the edge of the ceiling), then there is intense concentration and long-term exposure to humidity. In the case where only an impregnated board is used in the ceiling, it will not be damaged, but there is a risk of mold formation. The solution is simple. Use Knauf DRYSTAR or AQUAPANEL board in the construction of the ceiling above the shower area with the same dimensions as the shower area. There is no need to worry about connection problems with the rest of the construction, where GREEN boards are used again. However, be aware that whether the choice is DRYSTAR or AQUAPANEL, its surface must be fully skimmed. The increase in the cost of bathroom construction for this solution is negligible.</p>



<h2>Summary</h2>



<p>Moisture-resistant plasterboards are a solution for buildings that are exposed to high humidity levels, such as bathrooms, kitchens, and wellness centers. Plasterboards like Knauf GREEN, DRYSTAR, and DIAMANT are suitable for use in damp environments. Cement-based boards, such as Knauf AQUAPANEL, are recommended for extreme moisture exposure or areas where intensive ventilation is not possible. Unventilated ceilings above shower areas can be prone to mold formation if the wrong type of board is used. Choosing the right type of moisture-resistant plasterboard depends on the specific environment and level of moisture exposure. Knauf offers various system solutions that are capable of meeting the needs of the construction, ensuring reliability and durability.</p>


The advantage of modern dry construction in today&#8217;s world is that there is a solution for almost all levels of humidity. The problem lies only in choosing the appropriate material for a specific environment, as there are many real-life situations. The specific board material is theoretically chosen for constructions depending on the intensity of moisture exposure in the given environment. The good news is that KNAUF has several system solutions prepared for this purpose, which are capable of completely covering the needs of the construction.



Plasterboards for regular bathrooms with humidity up to 75%



&#8220;Green&#8221; plasterboard is best for most common bathrooms



In a typical bathroom with normal usage patterns, there is considerable moisture exposure, but usually not long-term. To be specific, the humidity in such a bathroom reaches 75% sometimes even 100%. However, if it does not exceed a period of two hours, there is nothing to worry about if we choose the impregnated Knauf Core Board together with impregnated jointing compounds (such as Uniflott Imprägniert) for the construction. The characteristic of this board with impregnated cardboard is its ability to absorb moisture up to a maximum of 10% of its weight. So it is really resistant even in such an environment. The second alternative is to choose the Knauf DIAMANT board, which excels in other criteria such as acoustic or fire-resistant properties, as well as strength and hardness.



Board for extreme moisture exposure



Aquapanel Knauf



When you need to be absolutely sure that the construction will withstand even in a room that will be exposed to almost 100% humidity or water splashing, and reliable intensive ventilation is not possible, you have only one option &#8211; a cement-based board. Knauf AQUAPANEL (INDOOR or OUTDOOR) is a 100% waterproof board that can withstand intensive moisture exposure. In addition to not swelling and being dimensionally stable in damp conditions, this board is resistant to mold and can be safely used outdoors in the OUTDOOR variant. AQUAPANEL is a uncompromising solution with a high level of reliability. It finds practical use in wellness centers, pools, hospitals, public showers, and similar places. This board is also easy to work with as it can be cut with a knife and attached with self-tapping screws.



Aquapanel is directly suitable for use in wellness centers



Example from practice: Unventilated ceiling above the shower area in the bathroom



An additional solution to the problem of mould in the bathroom of an apartment with poor ventilation in the shower area is a new ceiling with Knauf AQUAPANEL board, which completely eliminates the mould growth. Source: Ceskestavby.cz



For a traditional family bathroom, it is recommended to use DRYSTAR or even AQUAPANEL instead of the GREEN board in the ceiling above the shower area. This is an area where humidity during showering exceeds the specified limit of 75%. If the space under the ceiling is not intensively ventilated because there is no fan, or it is inappropriately placed (sometimes even 10 to 15 cm away from the edge of the ceiling), then there is intense concentration and long-term exposure to humidity. In the case where only an impregnated board is used in the ceiling, it will not be damaged, but there is a risk of mold formation. The solution is simple. Use Knauf DRYSTAR or AQUAPANEL board in the construction of the ceiling above the shower area with the same dimensions as the shower area. There is no need to worry about connection problems with the rest of the construction, where GREEN boards are used again. However, be aware that whether the choice is DRYSTAR or AQUAPANEL, its surface must be fully skimmed. The increase in the cost of bathroom construction for this solution is negligible.



Summary



Moisture-resistant plasterboards are a solution for buildings that are exposed to high humidity levels, such as bathrooms, kitchens, and wellness centers. Plasterboards like Knauf GREEN, DRYSTAR, and DIAMANT are suitable for use in damp environments. Cement-based boards, such as Knauf AQUAPANEL, are recommended for extreme moisture exposure or areas where intensive ventilation is not possible. Unventilated ceilings above shower areas can be prone to mold formation if the wrong type of board is used. Choosing the right type of moisture-resistant plasterboard depends on the specific environment and level of moisture exposure. Knauf offers various system solutions that are capable of meeting the needs of the construction, ensuring reliability and durability.

Learn about moisture-resistant plasterboards like Knauf GREEN, DRYSTAR, and AQUAPANEL that can be used in damp environments, and how to choose the right one.

Plasterboard for damp environments. Which one to use?


<p>Raised garden beds will save our backs when caring for plants, even allowing physically disabled individuals to garden, help us solve the problem of garden plant waste, and provide great conditions for plant vitality and health, not to mention a rich variety of plants. A properly established raised bed is actually similar to garden compost in a way. In fact, compost is exclusively placed on top as the final layer of the raised garden bed. How to establish a raised garden bed?</p>



<h2>First and foremost is the choice of construction material</h2>



<p>Actually, the first thing to consider is the height of the raised garden bed, as the choice of material will depend on it. If you want a raised bed that is only as high as the width of a plank or two, you will need to dig a hole as you will not have enough volume for layering materials otherwise. However, if you want to build a raised bed that is, for example, one meter high and easily accessible without straining your back, you can simply create it directly on the ground at a suitable location by turning over the turf and building the bed&#8217;s structure.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-gallery columns-3 is-cropped"><ul class="blocks-gallery-grid"><li class="blocks-gallery-item"><figure><img loading="lazy" width="1920" height="1080" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/raised-bed-herbs.webp" alt="" data-id="4575" data-link="https://buildiro.com/magazine/?attachment_id=4575#main" class="wp-image-4575"/></figure></li><li class="blocks-gallery-item"><figure><img loading="lazy" width="1920" height="1080" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/raised-bed-how-to-make-it.webp" alt="" data-id="4576" data-link="https://buildiro.com/magazine/?attachment_id=4576#main" class="wp-image-4576"/></figure></li><li class="blocks-gallery-item"><figure><img loading="lazy" width="1920" height="1080" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/raised-bed.webp" alt="" data-id="4577" data-link="https://buildiro.com/magazine/?attachment_id=4577#main" class="wp-image-4577"/></figure></li></ul></figure>



<p>As for materials, practically anything can be used, from planks, boards, and beams, to branches, chopped firewood, stone, bricks, concrete, metal (sheet), plastic or wood-plastic boards, rails, sleepers (note that they must be non-toxic!), etc. It is always important to make sure that the raised bed fits well into the specific location as an architectural element. Building the raised bed itself is not complicated &#8211; a simple raised bed is just four walls that are sufficiently high and long to hold the layered material together.</p>



<p>Only in the case of bricklaying, a gravel bed or, even better, concrete foundation joints must be created. Raised garden beds are even sold as ready-made structures or as materials designed for easy assembly. However, even a slightly skilled DIY enthusiast can handle any solution. It is not a particularly complicated construction project. Even a beginner can try it.</p>



<p>In fact, when it comes to a raised garden bed, we are talking about an edging. And it can really be constructed from sufficiently high curbs and palisades. If we then decide on a brick solution (material connected with mortar or concrete), we must not forget about drainage holes. You can even build it from so-called lost formwork blocks, vegetation blocks, or fence blocks. There are plenty of solutions available. For example, a potato or strawberry pyramid or an herb spiral can also be considered a type of raised bed. Moreover, a raised bed can even support or copy a building, retaining wall, or fence.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped"><ul class="blocks-gallery-grid"><li class="blocks-gallery-item"><figure><img loading="lazy" width="1920" height="1080" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/strawberry-pyramid.webp" alt="" data-id="4580" data-link="https://buildiro.com/magazine/?attachment_id=4580#main" class="wp-image-4580"/></figure></li><li class="blocks-gallery-item"><figure><img loading="lazy" width="1920" height="1080" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/strawberry-pyramid1.webp" alt="" data-id="4581" data-link="https://buildiro.com/magazine/?attachment_id=4581#main" class="wp-image-4581"/></figure></li></ul></figure>



<p>If you decide to use natural wood, it is advisable to choose a harder wood, such as larch, acacia, or oak. Raised garden beds are essentially huge mobile containers. You can even easily move a wooden composter onto a raised bed or easily make one from wooden pallets.</p>



<h2>What tools are needed to make a raised bed?</h2>



<ul><li><a href="https://buildiro.com/category/nail-guns" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Nail gun</a></li><li>Circular or <a href="https://buildiro.com/category/mitre-saws" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">mitre saw</a></li><li><a href="https://buildiro.com/category/tools-measuring-tools-spirit-levels" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Level</a></li><li><a href="https://buildiro.com/category/drills" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Drill</a></li></ul>



<h2>The width of the raised garden bed is key</h2>



<p>A thoughtfully designed and built raised garden bed that fits well into the garden has its unique charm. Simply put, they look nice. It&#8217;s also ideal to build multiple raised beds and distribute them appropriately in the garden. However, we must not overdo the width of the bed. The length can be practically any size, and the choice of height is quite variable, but the width must be such that we can easily reach every part of the bed from both sides. It doesn&#8217;t make sense to climb onto the bed and move around on it, as we would lose the biggest advantage, which is practicality.</p>



<h2>Raised garden beds are a great solution for sloping gardens, but also for gardens with poor soils</h2>



<p>The slope of the garden is actually a great opportunity to create raised garden beds. In this case, we can create terraced steps with them, which, when supplemented with stairs, facilitate movement around the garden. And if we cover the raised beds inside with wire mesh and foil, they won&#8217;t be as weed-infested at the beginning, and rodents won&#8217;t be able to gnaw through to the plants. Raised beds are also quite effective in preventing tougher weed roots and roots from spreading, as well as the spread of weed seeds. This is because weed seeds spread primarily at low levels, not at higher elevations, and a raised bed that is about 1 meter high is already a sufficient barrier. Although this advantage is somewhat diminished on sloping plots.</p>



<p></p>



<p>Raised garden beds are also ideal for gardens with poor, infertile, strongly clayey or, conversely, too permeable and nutrient-poor sandy or rocky soils.</p>



<h2>Let&#8217;s layering the raised garden bed</h2>



<p>To create a raised bed, we start by placing drainage material at the bottom of the container, followed by a suitable substrate, either purchased or self-made. However, a raised bed has several specific layers, not just a drainage layer and soil layer. The layers of soil and high-quality compost interact with each other, and it is recommended to place a layer of quality organic fertilizer on top of the soil layer. For example, we can pack well-rotted or fresh horse manure and cover it with leaves. Fresh horse manure and leaves are best used when creating a raised bed in early spring or spring, as they will generate heat that roots will love. However, any organic fertilizer can be used, from farmyard manure to pig, sheep, rabbit, or bird guano. All layers of the raised bed will interact with each other, and the decomposition processes will generate heat, even if no fertilizer is used.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped"><ul class="blocks-gallery-grid"><li class="blocks-gallery-item"><figure><img loading="lazy" width="1920" height="1080" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/raised-bed-laying.webp" alt="" data-id="4582" data-link="https://buildiro.com/magazine/?attachment_id=4582#main" class="wp-image-4582"/></figure></li><li class="blocks-gallery-item"><figure><img loading="lazy" width="1920" height="1080" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/raised-bed-laying1.webp" alt="" data-id="4583" data-link="https://buildiro.com/magazine/?attachment_id=4583#main" class="wp-image-4583"/></figure></li></ul></figure>



<p>To layer a raised bed, we first turn the grass turf upside down, then place small mesh wire as rodent protection at the bottom and sides, and cover the walls with foil. If the raised bed is higher than half a meter, we add a drainage layer, followed by a layer of wood, and then mix everything with soil, including twigs, leaves, rotten fruit, and vegetables. We create a more sophisticated form of compost with a predominance of soil in the upper part of the raised bed (with compost, it is the opposite &#8211; quality humus is removed from the bottom, but there is no need to worry, it will also form at the bottom in this case). Of course, this discussion is about tall raised beds. For low raised beds, we either layer them the same as regular beds, only a little higher and with a border, or we dig a hole and layer them the same as tall raised beds.</p>



<h2>Properly arranged layers of a raised bed (from bottom to top)</h2>



<ul><li>Soil with grass (grass sod, with the grass facing downwards)</li><li>Wire mesh to prevent rodents</li><li>Small branches and larger pieces of wood, including decomposing ones, and plant roots</li><li>Leaves, sawdust, and shavings, or cardboard without printing</li><li>Optional organic manure (if starting the bed in spring, fresh horse manure is recommended)</li><li>Layer of leaves, straw, hay, or a mixture of them all</li><li>Organic plant waste, such as garden and kitchen waste</li><li>One-year-old coarse compost or garden soil mixed with this compost</li><li>Mature, fine compost</li><li>If possible, high-quality humus such as aged cow manure decomposed into black soil</li></ul>



<h2>Advantages of raised garden beds</h2>



<p>If we elevate the beds sufficiently, we won&#8217;t have back pain while tending to plants. We won&#8217;t have to bend down. Another advantage is minimal weeds, elimination of trampled and dug-up areas by animals. Due to the high humus content and warmer soil microclimate, if we establish the bed correctly, we can expect a very rich harvest. Maintenance of elevated beds is also easier, we don&#8217;t have to regularly till them and laboriously weed the plants, we just need to rotate crops appropriately.</p>


Raised garden beds will save our backs when caring for plants, even allowing physically disabled individuals to garden, help us solve the problem of garden plant waste, and provide great conditions for plant vitality and health, not to mention a rich variety of plants. A properly established raised bed is actually similar to garden compost in a way. In fact, compost is exclusively placed on top as the final layer of the raised garden bed. How to establish a raised garden bed?



First and foremost is the choice of construction material



Actually, the first thing to consider is the height of the raised garden bed, as the choice of material will depend on it. If you want a raised bed that is only as high as the width of a plank or two, you will need to dig a hole as you will not have enough volume for layering materials otherwise. However, if you want to build a raised bed that is, for example, one meter high and easily accessible without straining your back, you can simply create it directly on the ground at a suitable location by turning over the turf and building the bed&#8217;s structure.







As for materials, practically anything can be used, from planks, boards, and beams, to branches, chopped firewood, stone, bricks, concrete, metal (sheet), plastic or wood-plastic boards, rails, sleepers (note that they must be non-toxic!), etc. It is always important to make sure that the raised bed fits well into the specific location as an architectural element. Building the raised bed itself is not complicated &#8211; a simple raised bed is just four walls that are sufficiently high and long to hold the layered material together.



Only in the case of bricklaying, a gravel bed or, even better, concrete foundation joints must be created. Raised garden beds are even sold as ready-made structures or as materials designed for easy assembly. However, even a slightly skilled DIY enthusiast can handle any solution. It is not a particularly complicated construction project. Even a beginner can try it.



In fact, when it comes to a raised garden bed, we are talking about an edging. And it can really be constructed from sufficiently high curbs and palisades. If we then decide on a brick solution (material connected with mortar or concrete), we must not forget about drainage holes. You can even build it from so-called lost formwork blocks, vegetation blocks, or fence blocks. There are plenty of solutions available. For example, a potato or strawberry pyramid or an herb spiral can also be considered a type of raised bed. Moreover, a raised bed can even support or copy a building, retaining wall, or fence.







If you decide to use natural wood, it is advisable to choose a harder wood, such as larch, acacia, or oak. Raised garden beds are essentially huge mobile containers. You can even easily move a wooden composter onto a raised bed or easily make one from wooden pallets.



What tools are needed to make a raised bed?



Nail gunCircular or mitre sawLevelDrill



The width of the raised garden bed is key



A thoughtfully designed and built raised garden bed that fits well into the garden has its unique charm. Simply put, they look nice. It&#8217;s also ideal to build multiple raised beds and distribute them appropriately in the garden. However, we must not overdo the width of the bed. The length can be practically any size, and the choice of height is quite variable, but the width must be such that we can easily reach every part of the bed from both sides. It doesn&#8217;t make sense to climb onto the bed and move around on it, as we would lose the biggest advantage, which is practicality.



Raised garden beds are a great solution for sloping gardens, but also for gardens with poor soils



The slope of the garden is actually a great opportunity to create raised garden beds. In this case, we can create terraced steps with them, which, when supplemented with stairs, facilitate movement around the garden. And if we cover the raised beds inside with wire mesh and foil, they won&#8217;t be as weed-infested at the beginning, and rodents won&#8217;t be able to gnaw through to the plants. Raised beds are also quite effective in preventing tougher weed roots and roots from spreading, as well as the spread of weed seeds. This is because weed seeds spread primarily at low levels, not at higher elevations, and a raised bed that is about 1 meter high is already a sufficient barrier. Although this advantage is somewhat diminished on sloping plots.







Raised garden beds are also ideal for gardens with poor, infertile, strongly clayey or, conversely, too permeable and nutrient-poor sandy or rocky soils.



Let&#8217;s layering the raised garden bed



To create a raised bed, we start by placing drainage material at the bottom of the container, followed by a suitable substrate, either purchased or self-made. However, a raised bed has several specific layers, not just a drainage layer and soil layer. The layers of soil and high-quality compost interact with each other, and it is recommended to place a layer of quality organic fertilizer on top of the soil layer. For example, we can pack well-rotted or fresh horse manure and cover it with leaves. Fresh horse manure and leaves are best used when creating a raised bed in early spring or spring, as they will generate heat that roots will love. However, any organic fertilizer can be used, from farmyard manure to pig, sheep, rabbit, or bird guano. All layers of the raised bed will interact with each other, and the decomposition processes will generate heat, even if no fertilizer is used.







To layer a raised bed, we first turn the grass turf upside down, then place small mesh wire as rodent protection at the bottom and sides, and cover the walls with foil. If the raised bed is higher than half a meter, we add a drainage layer, followed by a layer of wood, and then mix everything with soil, including twigs, leaves, rotten fruit, and vegetables. We create a more sophisticated form of compost with a predominance of soil in the upper part of the raised bed (with compost, it is the opposite &#8211; quality humus is removed from the bottom, but there is no need to worry, it will also form at the bottom in this case). Of course, this discussion is about tall raised beds. For low raised beds, we either layer them the same as regular beds, only a little higher and with a border, or we dig a hole and layer them the same as tall raised beds.



Properly arranged layers of a raised bed (from bottom to top)



Soil with grass (grass sod, with the grass facing downwards)Wire mesh to prevent rodentsSmall branches and larger pieces of wood, including decomposing ones, and plant rootsLeaves, sawdust, and shavings, or cardboard without printingOptional organic manure (if starting the bed in spring, fresh horse manure is recommended)Layer of leaves, straw, hay, or a mixture of them allOrganic plant waste, such as garden and kitchen wasteOne-year-old coarse compost or garden soil mixed with this compostMature, fine compostIf possible, high-quality humus such as aged cow manure decomposed into black soil



Advantages of raised garden beds



If we elevate the beds sufficiently, we won&#8217;t have back pain while tending to plants. We won&#8217;t have to bend down. Another advantage is minimal weeds, elimination of trampled and dug-up areas by animals. Due to the high humus content and warmer soil microclimate, if we establish the bed correctly, we can expect a very rich harvest. Maintenance of elevated beds is also easier, we don&#8217;t have to regularly till them and laboriously weed the plants, we just need to rotate crops appropriately.

Learn how to make a raised bed in your garden and enjoy the benefits of easier maintenance, better yields, and fewer weeds.


How to make raised garden beds, a great solution for plants and herbs


<p>Architects usually come up with a vision, and then they search for the best suitable building material to fulfill it. However, in the case of the so-called micro-shelters on the shores of Lac du Poisson Blanc, it was the opposite. A significant Canadian window manufacturer needed to execute a project as a demonstration of their product&#8217;s quality.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized"><img loading="lazy" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/168061284330.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-4568" width="555" height="387"/></figure>



<p>The talented architects from Atelier l´Abri gladly took on this presentation, and there was certainly no reason for complaints. As the design team describes, the commission allowed them to work in an exceptional location &#8211; on the shore of the lake in the protected area of Parc du Poisson Blanc, in the heart of the wild nature. Therefore, they took great care to ensure that the building itself did not disturb the local landscape.</p>



<h2>Nature in the main role</h2>



<p>The intention was designed as a typical wooden structure with an irregular profile, which can be more freely modified and placed in various conditions. Its main characteristic is to support sustainable tourism by offering recreational facilities in the lap of nature, without interfering with it. Other features of the project were derived from this creative task.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped"><ul class="blocks-gallery-grid"><li class="blocks-gallery-item"><figure><img loading="lazy" width="1000" height="667" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/31899-613966-1-5.webp" alt="" data-id="4569" data-link="https://buildiro.com/magazine/?attachment_id=4569#main" class="wp-image-4569"/></figure></li><li class="blocks-gallery-item"><figure><img loading="lazy" width="1000" height="667" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/31899-613966-2-3.webp" alt="" data-id="4570" data-link="https://buildiro.com/magazine/?attachment_id=4570#main" class="wp-image-4570"/></figure></li></ul></figure>



<p>The micro-shelter is designed to provide a comfortable space for sleeping/staying for up to two people. It offers quality facilities, including a fully equipped kitchen, bathroom, sleeping area, and a living room with corresponding dimensions. It even has a small wood-burning stove to provide warmth on chilly nights. Everything is in close contact with the surroundings, which is ensured by the wide insulated windows from the contractor&#8217;s company.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped"><ul class="blocks-gallery-grid"><li class="blocks-gallery-item"><figure><img loading="lazy" width="1000" height="1000" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/31899-613969-1-2.webp" alt="" data-id="4571" data-link="https://buildiro.com/magazine/?attachment_id=4571#main" class="wp-image-4571"/></figure></li><li class="blocks-gallery-item"><figure><img loading="lazy" width="1000" height="1000" src="https://storage.googleapis.com/buildiro-web-app.appspot.com/1/2023/04/31899-613969-2-4.webp" alt="" data-id="4572" data-link="https://buildiro.com/magazine/?attachment_id=4572#main" class="wp-image-4572"/></figure></li></ul></figure>



<h2>One year here, next somewhere else</h2>



<p>Solar panels provide electricity for lighting, and the equipment of this mini-house includes a composting toilet and a collection tank for wastewater. The micro-shelter does not release anything into its surroundings, and it is built on a supportive structure that does not interfere with the terrain. The structure can be dismantled into basic components and easily moved and rebuilt in another location if the owner wishes.</p>



<p>The architects from Atelier l´Abri add that there are plenty of beautiful places in (Canadian) nature. It is not in the interest of preserving these places to build permanent recreational facilities everywhere. However, their micro-shelter can travel seasonally between such places by the very nature of its existence without permanently affecting the scenery.</p>



<p>source:  <a href="http://labri.ca/">Atelier l&#8217;Abri</a></p>



<p>photo credit: Claude Badet<br></p>


Architects usually come up with a vision, and then they search for the best suitable building material to fulfill it. However, in the case of the so-called micro-shelters on the shores of Lac du Poisson Blanc, it was the opposite. A significant Canadian window manufacturer needed to execute a project as a demonstration of their product&#8217;s quality.







The talented architects from Atelier l´Abri gladly took on this presentation, and there was certainly no reason for complaints. As the design team describes, the commission allowed them to work in an exceptional location &#8211; on the shore of the lake in the protected area of Parc du Poisson Blanc, in the heart of the wild nature. Therefore, they took great care to ensure that the building itself did not disturb the local landscape.



Nature in the main role



The intention was designed as a typical wooden structure with an irregular profile, which can be more freely modified and placed in various conditions. Its main characteristic is to support sustainable tourism by offering recreational facilities in the lap of nature, without interfering with it. Other features of the project were derived from this creative task.







The micro-shelter is designed to provide a comfortable space for sleeping/staying for up to two people. It offers quality facilities, including a fully equipped kitchen, bathroom, sleeping area, and a living room with corresponding dimensions. It even has a small wood-burning stove to provide warmth on chilly nights. Everything is in close contact with the surroundings, which is ensured by the wide insulated windows from the contractor&#8217;s company.







One year here, next somewhere else



Solar panels provide electricity for lighting, and the equipment of this mini-house includes a composting toilet and a collection tank for wastewater. The micro-shelter does not release anything into its surroundings, and it is built on a supportive structure that does not interfere with the terrain. The structure can be dismantled into basic components and easily moved and rebuilt in another location if the owner wishes.



The architects from Atelier l´Abri add that there are plenty of beautiful places in (Canadian) nature. It is not in the interest of preserving these places to build permanent recreational facilities everywhere. However, their micro-shelter can travel seasonally between such places by the very nature of its existence without permanently affecting the scenery.



source:  Atelier l&#8217;Abri



photo credit: Claude Badet

Explore the sustainable tourism potential of Canadian glass micro-cabins designed to blend with nature. Learn about their unique features and benefits.

Canadian Glass Micro-cabin Serves Sustainable Tourism

Buildiro Magazine

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